is for Ichijoji, or the place known as my neighborhood. Ichijoji has been my home for about four years now. It is a charming, slightly grungy area of Sakyo-ku (East Ward) that is also known as Ramen Ally. To be honest, I haven’t actually eaten that much ramen around here, but that’s because I’m a creature of habit, and after I found one ramen restaurant I liked, I didn’t see the need to explore further (especially since I don’t have a budget for exploratory meals at Kyoto prices).
Ichijoji isn’t just ramen, though. It’s been home, and a good one. Our neighbors have been friendly, we are in proximity to a lot of convenient places and beautiful temples that draw large crowds every year. Amusingly, at least for me, is also how very hipster this area of Kyoto is, with shops stressing the exterior of their shops like a pair of fashionable jeans. All the cool kids do their tourism in Ichijoji, I guess, which besides for its temples and its ramen, is also home to a very over-priced hipster bookshop, and a very inexpensive used bookshop that is far more authentically hipster.
It’s also home to the ugliest gym on the planet (my gym, which I have to pay $130/month for), a hideous arcade (that kids don’t frequent) and an even more hideous pachinko parlor (Japan’s only legalized gambling). I sound like I’m complaining, but actually, I’m really fond of this area, and I’ll be sad to leave it.
NJ and I will never really have an experience like this again. Nor will we ever live in a place quite the same as Ichijoji. And that’s okay, but I’ll still miss it.
Images hosted on Flickr.
59 responses to “I is for 一乗寺”
I wish I could see photos like this of where my son lives in Matsuyama!
The area looks pretty old, and the photos are fabulous! 🙂
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My one biggest regret from every place I’ve had to move from is that I never took photos of my neighborhood. I made sure this time it wouldn’t be the case. 🙂 It is fairly old, definitely, but they’re slowly renovating (tearing down the old buildings… 😦 )
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It is certainly a good idea! There are many places I have lived that I don’t have photos of – it is a loss! Good that you are doing it this time. 🙂
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Okay, so what are the statues in the first piccie that look like they want my soul? 😉 Lovely photos as always, it’s great to be able to see where you live.
Tasha
Tasha’s Thinkings | Wittegen Press | FB3X (AC)
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Hahaha…. these are called Tanuki. It’s a raccoon dog that wears a turtle shell on its back, and a jug of sake so he can always be drunk and happy. He brings good luck and wards off evil, so many houses in Japan keep them in front of their doors (like garden gnomes, if garden gnomes had their genitals exposed… oddly, Tanuki are supposed to keep all of their money in their nether-pouches.) They’re an amusing, slightly creepy but charming part of Japanese culture. 🙂
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I was going to ask if they were a horde of ewoks. 😉 But I’m all for happy good luck dudes!
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Lol! The resemblance never crossed my mind!!
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I was going to ask the same thing. That is the most impressive set of garden gnomes that I’ve ever seen! At least they ward off evil! I’ve never understood whether the gnome version had any function at all, other than looking out of place and collecting dirt. Now I wonder…
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A really interesting view of your neighborhood, Alex. It’s always nice to see where someone lives. I’ll never forget the racket of the pachinko parlors – I could hear them a long way off and couldn’t imagine what would make all that noise. What are the things hanging in the third picture? Great photos!
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They’re small sandals that people leave on the statue of the monk that made a pilgrimage there (there’s a pilgrimage route that takes people through 180 temples and takes about a year to complete.)
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From the sound of your description and the photos, this is a very eclectic place to live. Those are the most interesting 🙂
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Indeed! I love it here. 🙂
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It looks like so much to explore. Can’t believe the price of your gym.
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It’s crazy. And I still have to pay a $3 visiting fee on top of that each time I go. 😦 the saddest thing is that’s the cheapest gym in my part of the city.
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The book store looks amazing, and the photo makes me want to step inside! I love the sound of Ichijoji – not sure I’m cool enough by the sound of it though!
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You’re plenty cool enough. 🙂 it might be a hipster playground, but it has all types. Grannies, funny old men, yakuza (!!!), children, etc… Always something interesting to watch.
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I’m liking the sound of it more and more. 😀
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Look at all the little Tanuki! 😀 And I imagine Japanese hipsters are equally annoying as American ones… 😀
@TarkabarkaHolgy from
Multicolored Diary – Epics from A to Z
MopDog – 26 Ways to Die in Medieval Hungary
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Basically. They emulate Portland hipster culture on purpose, I think… But it’s just the aesthetic, not the attitude.
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Gorgeous shots! You’ve got great material for the A to Z challenge.
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Thank you very much, Evelyn!
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I see what you mean about the distressed shop-fronts! My favourite picture is all the buddhas with their pink windmills.
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The pinwheels are left for the unborn children’s spirits. I’m glad miscarriages and the like are honored still, here.
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Oh, is that what they mean. That’s touching. We have a still born and neo-natal death memorial area in our necropolis.
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That’s wonderful.
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Alex, we host international exchange students from Japan about four times a year. We love that cultural exchange. Thanks for the pics!
Stopping in from A to Z and thanks for the continued participation!
Stephen Tremp
A to Z Co-host
Twitter: @StephenTremp
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That must be a really awesome experience! How old are they usually?
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Even the hideous things about a place make it “home.” It’s good that you can appreciate those things before you leave.
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Yeah. I take solace in the fact that I have a year to really take it all in.
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Seems like a nice place to live 🙂
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It really is. 🙂
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Those places look quite interesting to me. Looks like I need to add Japan to my travel bucket list 🙂
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You’d love it! Tons of happiness AND food!!! 😉
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How awesome! That’s all I want 😀
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That mob of Tanuki looks a bit terrifying. 😀
But that bookshop on 7th pic is definitely interesting. Are those 100 and 200 Yen books on display outside? Looks like a store I’d frequent.
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The bookstore with the man dancing is the authentic store, and yeah. The books are cheap. I actually found a really old Anerican comic there that was only 300yen. Crazy!
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This is completely unrelated to your actual post, today, but it’s these posts that are making me thing this:
Have you ever read Shogun? I think I am now wanting to read it.
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I haven’t, but it was gifted to me with a high recommendation. Maybe I should read it, too. 🙂
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I’ll try to remember to stop by the used book store tomorrow morning and see if they have it.
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You’re making me sad you have to leave now. It looks like a cool neighborhood.
~Patricia Lynne aka Patricia Josephine~
Member of C. Lee’s Muffin Commando Squad
Story Dam
Patricia Lynne, Indie Author
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Believe me, we’re super sad too. This theme is making it even harder to go through with it, but it’s the right decision.
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I guess hipster culture is everywhere. At least, until it’s replaced by the next cool thing.
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Yeah, Tokyo is always a good example of what happens when thy process is sped up substantially. There are so many fashion groups that there is no ONE style, but that’s a good thing, I think. 🙂
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It looks like a fantastic place, really. I think your affection comes across through your photos.
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Thank you, Sarah. I really do love our little neighborhood. It’s wonderful and quirky.
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It looks like a good place to call home!
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It is! No shortage of good food, either!
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Looks like it has a bit of character about it with the statues and the slight grubbiness.
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Oh definitely. It’s a really eclectic mix of stores, parks, temples, and people.
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Bookstore!! Sorry, I tend to go crazy over bookstores. But all writers do that… I think. Don’t they?
I’m curious about the fourth photo. What kind of figurine is that?
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It’s a tanuki. You can Google for the really cool cultural history, but basically it’s a raccoon dog with a bottle of sake and a turtle on its back that wards off evil. 🙂
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Such great photos! Love those tanuki. I’d like to see Okinawa some day. I’ve heard about the kijimuna and the shishi there.
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It sounds really quaint… charming… 🙂
Your affection for this place shines through in the photos!
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Hello Alex, I really love this series on Japanese words. I lived and worked in East Asia many years and even though my Japanese has never been as good as I would have liked to, I keep trying…not so easy from Scotland now, but hey, it’s worth the efforts. Good job, keep going 🙂
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And suddenly the price of my annual gym pass is sounding a lot more reasonable…
Love all the tanuki.
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Hi Alex, I’m stopping by from the A to Z because Michelle Wallace let me know you were posting photos from Japan. Love the look of your photos!
I posted some Japan pics from my 2004 trip there, for my “J” post. That was when I still had a film camera though 😉 Well, I do still have one, but I don’t use it anymore.
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Ooo, I’ll have to check it out! Which blog was it on? Michelle’s is Writer in Transit, yes?
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[…] year) G is for 庭 (90 comments vs. 15 last year) H is for 春 (64 comments vs. 11 last year) I is for 一乗寺 (57 comments vs. 16 last year) J is for 旅行 (44 comments vs. 24 last year) K is […]
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Thank you. I was born in Ichijoji some time ago and have very fond memories. Many of my family have passed; however, I still have cousins there. It was nice to see someone enjoy it as well. I’ve had my fair share of neighborhoods in places like NY, NJ, CA, NE, WA, PA, VA, and MD but the most enjoyable memories was in Ichijoji and my grandmother. Thanks!
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